Bombshell Bodice by Mouseinmypocket




So, I'm taking a Craftsy class.  I signed up for the class a few months ago (like before Christmas), and am finally getting around to taking the class.  It's the Sew Retro Perfect Bombshell Dress class.  The original dress pattern is the Burda Style Bustier Dress with Draped Detail.  I absolutely love the dress, but since my hips are fairly wide already, I don't really want a dress with a sarong style skirt, so I'm making some changes to the pattern.  I'm going to make the bodice of the dress as a top, and make a coordinating skirt, using the Burda Style Linda skirt pattern. (another project).

I've picked out some fabric for the finished project, which I am completely in love with.  I've got a print for the top and a coordinated print for the skirt, plus a beautiful solid for the underlining of the top.  Both prints are fabrics that I picked up at Let's Sew.  I'm hoping that they get their webstore up and running soon, so that you can buy some of their amazing fabrics too.  The herringbone pattern is Porcelain Tile in Aqua from the Garden Wall collection by Laura Gunn for Micheal Miller Fabrics.  The orange solid is Kona cotton broadcloth in Clementine.  The novelty sewing print is a Japanese import by Yuwa; I believe it's called Fashion Sewing.  I wasn't able to find it anywhere online in the colorway I have, but I did find it in 2 other colorways (pale yellow and white) on Etsy.

I also got my first muslin for the bustier completed last night.  It actually fits perfectly, if I was making the dress, but since it's going to be a separate, I need to add almost 5 inches to the length (and compensate for the difference in width between my waist and hips.  I have a feeling that I am not going to like that part, but I'll get it figured out eventually.

**Update 02/18/2013**
Tonight I finished tracing out my adjusted pattern pieces, got them cut out and made my second muslin.  The length is perfect, but I overdid the additional width, or at least didn't get the curve correct for it, because it's way too loose for a top with boning.  Now, to get an assistant to help me fit this thing to me.  I'd use my dress form, but the small is actually too big thru the waist to make a fitted garment like this.  It's great for everything else, but this one needs to be fitted on me.

**Update 02/24/2013**
I got my 3rd muslin finished last night.  It fits much better than the 2nd.  I'm got a little wrinkling happening, which I need to figure out how to deal with.  Please feel free to tell me how you would solve it.

**Update 03/05/2013**
I managed to get the muslin fit right, so I've taken the final muslin apart and redrawn the seam lines onto a new muslin which will be the underlining of my garment.  I got those pieces cut out, and will be cutting into the fashion fabric next.  Then I will need to hand baste the underlining to the fashion fabric.  I'm not really looking forward to that, but I can do it.

**Update 03/07/2013**
I made a lot of progress in the last couple days.  I cut out and hand basted all of my pieces, and I got them all sewn together into the outer shell!  There is still a lot of detail work to complete, but I'm pretty excited with the progress I've made so far.

**Update 03/08/2013**
I basically finished this top today.  I had to do a LOT of hand sewing, which I'm not a huge fan of, but I think it was worth it. Now all I'm short are a couple of zipper stops.  Once I have those installed, the top will be done, and I'll stop pulling the zipper pull off when I put it on (yes, I did this twice today - and my husband was amazing enough to put the pull back on for me).  Photos in the daylight.

**Update 03/08/2013**
The top is officially complete.  Even if I did have to buy a $15 zipper repair kit just to get the little zipper stops I needed.  I'm really happy with how it came out, and it looks great with my new ^linda-skirt too!  Now, do I keep it how it is, or do I add the optional straps (they would attach to the interior with buttons)?  What do you think?  If I put two buttons in the front and 2 in the back, I could make a halter strap, standard straps, and cross back straps.


It's hard to work when kitty wants to visit.
I did all of my hand basting in bright purple so it was easy to see and remove.
fashion fabric pinned to underlining
traced underlayers laid out on fashion fabric
new pattern pieces created from the final muslin
front of 3rd muslin
back of 3rd muslin
side view of 3rd muslin
print for the bustier top and solid for the underlining
second muslin - got the length right, but now too loose
second muslin on
second muslin on
first muslin on
back of first muslin on
first draft of muslin assembled
closeup of bust on first muslin
back of first muslin
interior of cup on first muslin
printed and assembled pattern
bodice pieces cut out





Love your fabrics- this will be so fun!


Thanks Mymble ! I really just want to take and sew the whole thing together, but I know that I can't until I get the change in the fit figured out. It really is too bad that I have no idea what I'm really doing to make these changes.... stupid hips. :)


No- you are doing it the right way-with clothes fit is so important- everybody has to adjust patterns- not something known right off the bat- really great article in the current Threads magazine about adjusting patterns.


Great fit so far!! Looks wonderful! Loving that fabric!


Sariecherries I'm so excited about it. I wish you could have made it to #vcraftnite on Saturday. I'd probably have made more progress with your guidance. I hope you're feeling better.


Mouseinmypocket have you considered consulting with the historical clothing ladies here on Threadbias? This kind of bodice might be right up their alley:) Your work so far is excellent but I agree- the extra fabric/wrinkles would make me hesitate before going ahead with the actual fabric. It looks like the panels are too long between just under the bustline and the waistline. Also, since it's a top and not a dress you don't have the weight of the skirt pulling it down a bit as the dress would. I am also curious- is it possible to cut the bodice panels on the bias? It would give you a really snug fit - may not be a good idea for this but just wondering:) In any case- you have really done great work on this so far- know it will be a great finish:)


Mymble I didn't know there were historical clothing ladies here on Threadbias. I'll have to see what I can find.


You are way ahead of me on this (I have also signed up, but not started yet. Re - fitting of 3rd muslin. the horizontal lines are an indication of being a bit tight around the body. Some of these will disappear when it is boned, but not all. I also think that it is definitely too tight from the waist down, over the hips, this is why it is riding up a bit and giving you the larger horizontal pleat across the back. It looks like you have generous seam allowances, go to the side seams and restitch them 1/8" larger from the top to the waist and then a bare 1/4" down over the hips. Do the stitching first, then unpick the original seam. Do one side, then try it on to see how it feels, before you do the second side That way you can gauge if you need to let out more at the top or not. I think that you will over the hips. But once the seam is sewn, it is easier to re-align it by sewing first and ripping the one to come out second, than ripping the seam first and then having to pin and re sew. (Unless you have to take in/let out the fabric from one side of the seam only)
Interested to see how this works on you.


Posyp Thanks! I will definitely try that. I knew there was a reason I left large seam allowances on this one.


Mouseinmypocket Always leave large seam allowances in a muslin! ;) Draw the original pattern lines on to guide your first stitching lines and to give you a datum line to work from once you start altering and it is easier to keep track of what you are doing. When you go to mark your alterations on your master pattern, change colour pencil and date them so you can see which is the most recent one. I always date my patterns when I draw them up to keep track of things.


Sounds like Posyp has nailed it for you- all good info there! And I was about to send you the details about the Historical Clothing group when I saw you had already found your way there:))))-looking forward to seeing this progress!


Looks amazing!!! You are just moving right along!! Love it!


Sariecherries , how's yours going?


Looks so good. Thanks for posting all those process pics. Amazing!


Great finish-and the skirt looks super!


You look so gorgeous in that! I love it without any straps! However, if they attach with buttons, it might be nice to have the option on wether to use them or not. Great job!!


This is amazing and looks so good on you!


Well done, lady. Looks stunning on you. Yay!


Congratulations! It looks really good on you. Is it comfortable to wear? (I have to say I think it looks chilly to wear, but then we have just had a surprise load of snow in the last 24 hrs!)


Posyp it is actually very comfortable to wear, even with the boning, since it's made to my size and not some standard size, the boning just holds the shape of the top instead of squeezing me to a certain shape. And it was about 50 degrees out when I took that photo. We had a nice warm sunny day that day. I'm actually really wearing the top to work today, but I put a little grey cardigan over it for warmth and to tone the look down for the office.


Charwirfs Mymble Sewzalot Carolmarie Amanda QueenofChaos Thanks so much ladies! I'm so pleased with it. I learned a lot making it and it's fun to wear.

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